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Netherlands, Tulips & Windmills River Cruise - 2011Holland & Belgium
April 7
Bonnie,
Barb, Brian and I had the usual dreary plane ride from
We hooked up with most of the rest of our traveling companions at the hotel. We all thought that it was a good idea to walk a bit to try to combat the jet lag. The place is full of coffee houses, that will mix up whatever brew, as well as whatever high you want from legal marijuana. The later is readily available, and you can get custom mixes for whatever buzz you want to experience. And you can obtain a variety of seeds for your own personal herb garden back home.
We also discovered what had to be the cities smallest bar. Needless to say, we had to have a beer or two. Paul soon was best buddies with everyone in the place, including Kevin, a former jockey from Newcastle. Or so he said.
Of course, we also had to take a stroll through the Red Light District, purely on an exploratory basis, you understand. This place had to have been having an off night, as the area is usually thronged with people.
We discovered a particular coffee shop, that will have a special meaning to some from our group. Eventually the jet lag kicked in, and we headed back to the hotel to crash. April 8
We
all slept well last night.
So it was up for the typical European breakfast and then out the door.
We started with a walking tour of old We passed through a portion of the Begijnhof or cloister, which was originally a cluster of small houses for pious, single women. They could live here without husband or children, without becoming nuns, at a time when there were few alternatives. In fact, single women still live here. Several things to note here. One is the Gebed Zonder End alley, which means Prayer without End. The Dutch have adapted this saying to slang for any event that goes on and on.
Also of interest were lintel stones set into a wall. These depicted the craft or trade of the house in olden times. Think of them as the first marketing tools.
The walking tour pointed out some of the more expensive real estate (around €9,000/ sq meter) you do the math. There is a ten year wait for public housing, a small house costs around €200/250,000.
Our next stop was a walk through the tulip market. While there was plenty to see, including your very own cannabis sativa plaqnts, we all decided to wait until later in the trip.
We departed the end of the tour and took the streetcars down to
the
On to the train
station, the end of the streetcar line, and back on to another for a
ride back to the Dam area (where they originally dammed the
Did I mention that there are lots and lots of bikes.
People ride them everywhere.
I think we were told that while the city proper has a population of
around 80,000, there are 600,000 nicycles.
So the streets are equally shared by bikes, cars, and
pedestrians. The bikes all seem to
have the right of way, and will run over anything in their path, physics
be damned. Finally it was yet another short bar stop, and back to the
hotel, with dinner in a bit at a steak joint Paul had discovered.
April 9
After a good nights rest, we were off to explore more of
So far, this is the only wiondmill we have seen. The tulip market was yesterday. Is this the only windmill? After we returned to the hotel, Brian and I headed out to scout for a coffee house in which to spend a few hours. We walked and walked, and by the time we found a place to sit, there was no chance of returned for the group. So he and I stayed, and solved the world’s problems, while the rest of our entourage stayed in the hotel lobby and solved the problems that the two of us failed to address.
Then it was off to our floating home away from home (unpack once
and you’re good to go) the Viking Europe.
We had obligatory safety lecture, crew introductions, and dinner.
From that point we walked back into town, past the
central
railway station, and to the Vistoria Hotel. This was to be the
start of a guided tour of
the Red Light District. Our guide turned out to be a woman from – April 10 The day started with a canal cruise, past many of the sights we had already seen. There are no barriers on the canal sides. The Dutch trust people to use their own good judgement in how close to get to the edge. As a result, a few cars end up in the water due to people misjudging parking areas.
Some of the houses have ornate cornices, and if a house has a series of steps leading to the front door, tne builder must have been very wealthy.
There are about 2,400 houseboats that are moored along the canals are taxed as residences. If a houseboat sinks or moves, another may not occupy its spot, as the city is trying to get rid of them. Many are in poor repair. The canals are bridged by low, narrow bridges, which can make navigation difficult. We then spent some time looking for Sara’s Pancake House, which turned out to be in the only direction we did not explore.
We passed the royal residence, which is under renovation. This must be our curse, as practically everyplace we have gone, the palaces have been under repair.
Then into the Anne Frank
House, for a sobering moment on
experiences in occupied
What did we learn today? Only
about 3% of all housing is owner occupied.
The Dutch did not invent the windmill – they did invent the
movable windmill head, this allowing the sails (blades) to be turned so
as to catch the most wind. The narrow Dutch houses
are taxed on frontage along the canal.
If you have a house on a corner, you get hit twice.
Bikes abound.
Parking is difficult; they are building a subway which is way over
budget. While heavier, new houses
are on 30 meter concrete pilings, everyone else is on wood pilings, which run down maybe 15 meters.
This makes it imperative that water levels be maintained so that the
pilings stay under the surfact (to block rot) but the water level below
the housing level. The streets were crowded, with people
are all over the place. It is a sunny Sunday. Everyone was
out enjoying it, as the area generally gets over 200 days of grey sky. April 11
We
sailed early this morning for
The second name from here was Jan Pieterzoon, who helped found There are also three children’s book heroes, displayed as bronze sculptures. Apparently The Shipboys of Bontekoe are well known, although I must confess to never having heard of them.
The town itself has a population of about 70,000, but you certainly wouldn’t know it from our morning tour. Things in the residential district were pretty quiet. The houses generally date from about 400 years ago (1600), and have been restored and rebuilt in the old style. Many had wooden frames, and as a result, are leaning quite a bit. There are a few nice details here, in frames, lintels and doors, and you get a sense of the age of the place, by examining some of the corner and builder's date stones.
I thought that doors were of interest. They were all painted in a high gloss enamel, which made things shine and sparkle in the morning sunlight.
Initially, visitors are greeted with a nice defensive tower,
which also had a lighthouse.
While the city was supposed to have been walled, I certainly
didn’t see any remnants of the structure except the tower.
There were the usual canals and brick streets, and the usual
abundance of bicycles.
The
bikes are all pretty substantial, single speed machines.
I supposed riding on the flat, on bricks, requires a sturdy
machine. And people are all
sitting up on these – none of this bending over racing style.
These are utilitarian; get me from point A to point B devices.
Some of the doors are pretty intricate, with what appears to be
hand carving. The central
square has Cheese House, which was a former hospital.
The downtown was bustling and vibrant, with lots of shops; a
clear contrast to the sleepy residential district.
We had a couple of libations in a street café (surprised?), and
then headed back to the shop in the late afternoon.
Tonight is a wooden shoe demonstration.
I’ll reserve judgment.
Dinner – high hilarity, with a great group of people.
I didn’t make the wooden shoe gig, as was helping yet another
woman with her Smartphone. April 12 The wonderful weather left us today, to be replaced with rain showers. However, that did not stop us, so off on the buses we went.
First,
we headed out to the
The grounds cover about 4,000 hectares, complete with gardens
that resemble a miniature The royal stables contain a collection of cars and carriages, including children's carriages and pull toys. I have no photos of the palace, as picture taking was not allowed. It was a typical small palace, but you’ll have to take my word for it. I wonder, when I see these things: How did people really live? Get up, have a cup of coffee, read the Wall Street, decide to invade a country, impose a new tax? What? At any rate, that took until Noon, when it was back to the ship, and the usual cruise eating contest. We again tried to check our email, but with mixed results. The same guide we had in the morning took over for a tour of the grounds that were fought over in the Battle Arnhem. This ten day battle, in September of 1944, was a massive Allied defeat, and a real blot on the military career of Field Marshall Montgomery. In a nutshell, here is what transpired. I had a great deal of help here from Dan. While I remembered the basics, Dan former history teacher and old movie buff, filled in the particulars before we arrived on site.
The Allies landed
on the Normandy beaches in June, ’44.
The forward momentum stalled out at the border of Our final stop was a sobering visit to the wartime cemetery, where many of the victims were buried – many unknown.
As usual, the droning guide, the vibration of the bus, put most
of us into deep slumber.
But it was back to the ship, dinner, and a folk dancing exhibition.
Later. Walking down
to the lounge, I ran into Dan, who had just come back from a brief walk
into the town of April 13
The
sun was out again today, as we sailed up the river to
Dordrecht is an important traffic hub in the Here is the story of the Dutch windmills. While the Dutch did not invent the windmill, they invent the rotating windmill head, thus allowing the sails of the mill to be directed in any direction so as to capture optimum wind flow. Originally used to power granaries, and lumber mills, the power of the mills was eventually turned to use as water pumping devices. In order to reclaim marshy coastal lands, the Dutch built a series of feeder canals in fertile, low lying lands. By using berms and series of sluiceways, the water could be channeled out to the river and then to the sea at low tide. The berms kept the high tide water from flowing back into the drained areas. The drained lands started to settle, and the berms had to be built higher, and eventually, settlement became so much that pumps were needed to get the water out to the higher level rivers and sea. Enter the windmill, with scoop wheels affixed externally to the mill. The mills in this area were built in 1738 – 1761. The drainage canals fed two reservoirs, one higher than the other. One set of mills would pump water up a step to the next reservoir, while the second pumped the water out to the river or sea. This step procedure (or multi-stage pumping) is still utilized in pump and water management situations today. The windmill vanes drive an upper wheel gear, which in turn drives an upper and lower pinion, set on the kingpost. The lower pinion drives a water wheel which scoops the water up (no more than 1 meter) and into the reservoir. A hinged door, called the watch door, keeps the water from flowing back should the mill stop. These mills were also homes, as the operator (the miller) had to be ready 24/7 to make certain that the sails were correctly set, and to turn the pumping action on and off according to need. The pumping power eventually moved to steam, then to diesel electric or straight electric propulsion. These windmills are still operational, and can be used in the event that the electric pumps stop working. The pumping stations can lift as much as 1,500,000 liters per minute. The battle against the water continues. And just to show you that we were actually on site, here we are, all happy in the morning sun. The Dutch still use the wind, although now it is with Vestra wind turbines, generating electricity. It is estimated that if the pumps were to shut down, the land would revert to water filled march in as little as 3 months. Then it was back to the ship and another favorite pastime, lunch. I should mention the tree screens. Everywhere we went, we saw trees, tied into this screening lattice. The Dutch use the leaves to form a sun screen. Personally, I wouldn't think there would be enough sun to worry about, but we saw this implementation everywhere.
This will be an afternoon of R&R.
We were treated to passing coastal ships carrying bulk, containers and
coastal tankers. Tonight
and tomorrow, we are in April 14 The day dawned with more passing coastal river traffic. Note the raised pilot house, which is necessary for passing under low bridges. The car is used in port, as the captain and his family live on board.
Today was our day in Our day started with a walking tour. While the girls took a bus and toured more of the Antwerp area then a walking tour of the older part of town. We manly men took the extended walking tour. As a result we walked though the old red light district (now moved to be closer to the docks on the 89 mile long harbor) and many refurbished apartments and inner garden courtyards.
We ended up
in the old town square, with the statue of Brabo, the man who slay the river dragon
and threw his hand in the river, thus founding
All along we saw the new – as evidenced by this new museum, representing waves and containers - to the old, with stepped false fronts and brickwork.
A highlight was the Cathedral of Our Lady, which had contained some Paul Rubens paintings. The interior is pretty. although I suspect that it is kept as a torurist showpiece. If you looked closely, wear and tear were evident.
We went back to the ship. We did pass by this little slice of home, but did not stop.
Later, we were all pretty restless, so the the four guys walked back to town to
see the railway station, one of the grandest in
There is
much to like about the lifestyle and the general feeling in April 15
If
it is the 15th, it must be – Brugge.
Entry is through the port city of
Originally, Brugge was a port city, but the harbor silted up, and
the city saw a slow, gradual decline.
This actually proved to be a saving grace for the residents, as
they had no money for urban renewal, and the city remained.
That lack of funding was the saving grace, as the residents were
unable to destroy the inherent beauty.
That of course, led to a huge tourist trade, with an abundance of
tourist shops, restaurants, tours by horse and canal boat.
The city sees roughly six million tourists a year, and this day
was no exception. The place
was packed, and frankly, a bit much.
Is it pretty, of course.
Is it a great example of a European walled city?
You bet. Was I
really impressed? Well, not
so much. I sort of felt
like, been there, done that.
There are a bunch of these walled cities in
The church played a huge factor in medieval towns, and Brugge was
no exception. There are
plenty of massive church related structures, including asylums, a
hospital, alms houses, and the main churches.
Of note is one of the few Michelangelo statues outside of Visitors also get to see nice gardens, a canal system (hey folks, lets increase our revenue stream with canal boat rides) and the usual Flemish stepped gabled houses, built in the Dutch style – narrow, deep and high. We were told that the stepping arrangement is called "Steps to Heaven." It is an apropos title, as the structure does resemble a staircase climbing into the sky. Admittedly, some of the brickwork and ornamentation was quite lovely.
Paul was unable to get his QuietVox to function correctly, so took on a new duty as the "Carrier of the Sign" for the tour guide so he could hear her commentary. I think he did it to get a discount on his next cruise! The four couples took the extended package today, so we had roughly three hours in which to explore the area. First, we had lunch of Belgian waffles in an Iranian café (go figure) and then took a canal boat ride, which gave us an additional perspective on the old bridges, and houses of the city. At this point it was shopping time, and we did our level best to help lift the Belgian economy through the purchase of tapestry and lace.
And as usual, we ended up in street cafes, watching the 15,000 of our closest personal friends wander market plaza, and sampling the local Belgian beers, of which there are a large number. Eventually, it was time to head back to the boat (along with another hours nap) and the start of the evening.
And we finally
saw tulips. We have seen
the windmills, and now the tulips.
Hence the Tulips and Windmills trip designation. April 16 The intrepid travelers were up and out early again this morning. Our greeting was a hot air balloon. We met our guide, who was a most pleasant woman, who had been guiding for some twenty years. I don’t know if I mentioned it, but guides have to go through a two year educational program and obviously need to speak at least two languages.
Our first stop,
in the light morning fog, was the town of Paul was once again tasked with carrying the sign, as the guide has some visuals to display. This place was pretty much destroyed in the second world war. Barb always worries about me wandering off; a couple of the people on this tour did get sidetracked and almost missed the bus. The bus ride was an excuse for a half hour nap, but the end destination was amazing.
Today we went to the Delta Works.
This project is a storm surge suppression system designed to
keep the islands and lands in the Rhine, Maas and The government decided to so something about this. Existing dikes were repaired and built to a new height. New dams were built, but in three places, the Dutch took a revolutionary approach. Rather than try to simply wall off the water all the time, the fishing industry had to be preserved, along with the ecology of the tidal estuary. The results were massive storm surge gates. The construction project was ambitious. The seabed was prepared with a special mat for stability, and huge concrete pylons were constructed, and floated into position by a specially built ship. The pylons were then filled with sand for weight, and rocks were carefully piled around the bases. Special steel doors were fitted between the pylons that can be lowered by hydraulic rams to close the openings in case of high water surge. This was a 25 year project, with three seawalls constructed. It was a very impressive, and a very ambitious project. We saw a film about the process, and then visited one of the gate complexes. I vaguely remember this, but had no idea as to the immensity of the project. After that it was a ride on the bus, which meant yet another nap. There was a great deal of agricultural land to be seen along the way, and it was pointed out the when the area flooded, the water was as high as the top of the second story of buildings. We picked up the ship in another port, had lunch, and did the wheelhouse tour. As with most modern ships, the ship is all pretty much computer operated, with joysticks, and thrusters. This ship is 115 meters in length, has a beam of just over 11 meters, and yet has a draft of only 1.75 meters. Satellite navigation has done wonders for water travel.
Tonight we will be in
We
are coming to the end of the trip, with only a single day in
April 17
This
cruise was billed as Tulips and Windmills.
Well, we have seen the windmills.
Today was to be Tulip Day, and we were not disappointed.
We visited the
So the whole area is filled with tulip growers, who plant, wait for
the blossoms to form, and then cut off the blossoms, dig up the bulbs,
and send them all over the world.
And this brings me to our destination. In the area, was a small castle with a nice garden.
The mayor of a small local town had an idea.
Why not have the town take over the garden, turn it into a
showcase for tulips, and
make some money.
The result if Keukenhof Gardens, a garden that is only open two
months of the year, but pulls in roughly 800,000 visitors.
After being greeted by a young woman in traditional Dutch garb, visitors will see rivers of color, special displays, and acres of
flowers. The gardens are set up
with photo spots so that visitors can get great shots with lots of color
in the background. There is every type of flowering bulb
imaginable, as is evidenced by some of these photos. The garden
features music,
food, and of course, bulbs to purchase and ship home.
It was very, very impressive.
The five of us were given free rein, and we saw plenty of
beautiful sights.
We
all napped on the bus ride back into
I
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