Canada - Atlantic Provinces

Canada - Atlantic Provinces

Three of the Provinces - Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island

September 5

After the usual flights, Milwaukee to Boston to Halifax, we arrived for the start of our long put off trip to the Atlantic (Maritime) Provinces in Eastern Canada.  We did have time to get a start on seafood at Legal Seafood in the Boston airport.  Because we got in so late, we stayed at the Alt Hotel, located right in the airport.  There wasn’t much for dinner, but we managed with bar food, and then headed for bed.  We anticipate that there will be driving, eating, and sightseeing on this jaunt (Spoiler:  we will not be disappointed.)

September 6

We lucked out on the car rental this morning, having scored a new Ford Escape.  This was a vehicle that we really liked, and if we were in the market for a midsize SUV, would probably purchase one.  It was roomy, peppy, and easy to handle, with the knobs and buttons in the right place. 

Our first stop was Peggy's Cove, to see “the most visited lighthouse in Canada.”  Fortunately for us, the fog stayed away while we took our photos, and then rolled in.  Too bad for the tour buses, though. 

Still, we got a look at the coast line.

We motored on to Marone Bay, and had lunch at a small restaurant overlooking the bay and the town.  Truthfully, the food was just OK, but still, it was nice to see the small village with the three church steeples.

Then it was on to Lunenburg.  We stayed right downtown, so were treated to some really lovely views of homes and waterfront.  Dinner was at the Grand Banker.  They had good scallops (natively pronounced “scaahllops”) and good local beer. 

September 7

It rained as we crossed Nova Scotia today, with a first stop at Tim Horton's, a Canadian institution, in Bridgewater.  Our stop after that was at Kijimkujik National Park.  The fun is in the pronunciation – Kid Gee Mah Koo! Jik – although mostly shortened to “Keejee.”  The park consisted mostly of trees, more trees, lakes and rain.  We didn't see much sense in walking in the pouring rain, we just looked in the gift shop, and moved on. 

Our lunch stop was in Digby, from whence Digby scallops come.  Who knew?  And of course, lunch consisted of – scallops.  So we had Digby scallops, in Digby. 

The final stop was Annapolis Royal.  We took a tour of the power generating station on the Bay of Fundy.  The Bay has the highest tides in the world.  The gravitational pull of the moon is enough to create the high tides because of the shape.  The power station only runs twice a day, as the head pond water level can’t be dropped or raised too much due to lake shore cabins and residents. Still, it runs for about five hours at a shot, twice a day, producing about 20 megawatts of power at peak capacity.   Most of the generating equipment is below grade, so there really wasn’t much to see.  It was interesting to hear about the place and see how it operated. 

After checking in at the Hillsdale House B&B (lovely, but another short pedestal sink), we headed downtown to have a beer in the smallest pub in Nova Scotia, and then dinner at a German restaurant, Café Compose’, which was located right on the shore of the Bay. 

The place was Austrian, with a charming wait staff and owner, and the schnitzel, spatzel, and lobster rissoto were to die for. 

September 8

Today we were on a bit of a schedule, as we had to make the 11 AM ferry to St. John, New Brunswick.  But before we left the Hillsdale House, we had breakfast.  And they featured The. Best. Pancakes. Ever.  OMG.  These things were light, fluffy, and one could probably have eaten a whole lot of them.  Seriously, it was really good. 

We made the ferry, being early, as usual, and chatted with fellow passengers.  We watched a log truck being reloaded, and the crane operator was a master, being able to pick up single logs as if they were matchsticks. 

We motored on to the Bay of Fundy Park, which featured more lakes and lots and lots of trees, and then to Cape Enrage, which was just a so so side trip. 

The stopping point for the night was the Innisfree B&B, where we had the suite at the rear of the establishment.  So we had a living room, with a fireplace (decorative flames, but still), bedroom, and bath, and best of all, our own parking slot.  We also had a small private deck, and sat, drank wine, and watched the trees.  The owners, Heather and Attie, were from South Africa, and really great hosts.  Dinner was at a little local place up the road called the Cinnamon Soul Café.  It was quirky and cute.  It was a chilly night, more to our liking and expectations, and we slept like logs. 

September 9

Our hosts provided us with a great breakfast, and we were off to Hopewell Rocks Park.  It was low tide, so you could walk down to the sea bottom, and explore around the base of the rocks.  We decided to take our photos from a higher angle to provide a better perspective on the whole area.  The base of these rock formations is totally submerged when the tides come in.  So again, it was a walk in the dense woods, followed by a trip to the gift shop. 

We next headed to Moncton, and stopped at the Magnetic Hill Illusion.  This is one of those optical illusions, in which it looks like you are going up or down, but the reverse is true.  So you drive down a short hill, put your car in neutral, and the car seems to back up the hill of its own accord.  It’s rather strange, and even though you know how it works, it’s still rather baffling.  Of course, we, and several other cars, did it several times. 

On to Shediac, the home of the world’s largest lobster.  This guy turns out to be a metal sculpture, just as you head into town.  But it was worth a stop.  We went into town seeking lunch.  We parked on the short main street, and explored a couple of restaurants, which frankly, looked to be a bit high end for our Noon tastes.  We ended up at a rather divey looking joint called The Lobster Deck.  And had probably the best lobster rolls we have ever had.  Each one tasted like – another!  It was great. 

Moving on, we crossed the Confederation Bridge, which connects New Brunswick with Price Edward Island.  At 12 km in length, it is the longest bridge over iced water in the world.  People told us that the supporting pylons are just resting on the ocean floor.  And that if you drive it in the winter during a snowstorm, there is a tunneling effect in which the snow swirls around your path like a tornado vortex.  It is supposed to be rather disorienting.  At the highest point, the bridge is 60 meters above the ocean, so it would be like driving in thin air. 

On our way to Charlottetown, we meandered to Victoria by the Sea, which is a bit of an artist’s colony.  PEI looks a lot like southwestern Wisconsin with rolling hills.  There aren’t nearly the forests as the other two provinces, and there is a great deal of agriculture. 

We stopped in Charlottetown, the largest city on the island, at our B&B, the Shipwright Inn.  We were on the second floor this time.  The place was quaint, and my brother would have liked it, as there were tchotchkes all over the place.  And another low pedestal sink.  Sigh.  But it was not as nice the last night.  We walked down town for dinner, and ate at a street café.  We debated about going to “Anne of Green Gables; The Musical” but demurred.  We talked to people later on that said it was actually pretty good.  It was Saturday night in Charlottetown.  I found a book of pen & ink drawings on the PEI narrow gauge railroad system, which is my souvenir of the stay. 

September 10

Breakfast was OK, and we headed out to the north side of the island, specifically Cavendish, which is where all the Anne of Green Gables stuff is.  The house is a replica of the author’s uncle’s house, and filled with period items.  It attracted loads of people.  And the shops were full of merchandise to commemorate your visit.  The scenery was really beautiful, and peaceful, and I think I can see why people come and stay here.  There are so many places that we have been, but this was one of the few where I really thought that I could relax and settle in.  Of course, that may an improbable image; me relaxing and settling in!  But you seem removed from the world and somewhat forgotten. 

We stopped in New Glasgow, at the PEI Preserve Company.  This was a tour bus stop, which we normally avoid, but was recommended by a friend.  Lunch was really good, with potato pie, a local specialty.  It sounds strange, but Barb said it was big and filling.  I had lobster again. 

We drove on to Monegue, and did part of the North central coast drive, and then some of the east coast drive.  We stopped at some of the shore areas for photos.  There aren’t the rough, craggy rocks, but there is plenty of ocean to see.  Back in Charlottetown, we had dinner at a nice place called the Merchantman.  While many of the businesses are seasonal, there is s still a nice feel to PEI.  It is rather like the area where we grew up, but with a nautical tint.  As I said, I could come back here to relax.  It was a cold night, and sleeping was good. 

September 11

We were up early, and off for the ferry to take us back to Nova Scotia.  Goodbye PEI, Hello Nova Scotia.  As we were early, we caught the early boat, being probably the last car on before departure.  We were fortunate on this, as the day started and hour and a half early.  It is raining again, and we are back to trees and more trees.  We are on Cape Breton Island, and driving up the west coast.

Our first stop was the Glenora Distillery, which is the oldest in North America.  We sampled a bit of scotch and Barb, the scotch drinker, pronounced it just OK.  It is pretty along the coast, with a lot of Gaelic influence.  Personally, I find the music to be “screechy.”  But some people really like it. 

We ended up in the Acadian area in Cheticamp, at the Maison Fiset House.  Cheticamp has an area population of around 3,000, and it is windy here, with gales sometimes blowing to 150/160 kph.  The B&B has NO pedestal sink, so I’m happy.  The place is interesting, as the foundation was partially formed from leftover granite which was destined for the big local church.  Again, I could have stayed longer, as the room was really nice.  And it had the best shower so far.  The town is a big tourist draw, as it is the last place before you get into the Cape Breton Highlands Park.  Dinner was in a local place, overlooking the water, and while it was windy, it wasn’t all that bad.  We had a good night’s sleep. 

September 12

Our first stop was at the church, which was a massive stone entity, dominating the town.  The stone came from the “island” (actually just a peninsula) across the bay, some of which was used for the foundation of our B&B.

So we are on the Cabot Trail and of course, the one day we wanted clear weather, it is raining and foggy.  That sort of muted the views, but it was still pretty spectacular, with rugged coast, dense forest, and crashing surf.  This is a sort of larger Acadia Park, but without the people. 

We stopped and hiked to a recreated shepherds hut, only to discover later that we would have seen it from the road. 

We were held up along the way by road construction, and stopped at White Point, where we managed to squeeze into a small parking area and hike out to see the graves of the forgotten sailors.  It seems that the currents make this point a catching place for people who are lost at sea.  As most in the old days were unidentifiable, they are buried here, on a wind swept point, overlooking the north Atlantic. 

About lunch time we stopped at the Chowder House, but never got served, so moved on to the Coastal Restaurant, which tuned out to be excellent.  We chose – wisely!  And being in Canada, we even had a plate of poutine.  We split a crab sandwich and had a local beer.  A good time. 

So down the east side of the park, with pounding surf and amazing views. 

We pulled into Baddeck, first stopping at the Bell Museum.  Alexander Graham Bell did a lot of early aeronautical experiments here, both with aircraft (Canada’s first powered flight, the Silver Dart) and hydrofoils.  He and fellow pioneers founded the AEA, the Aerial Experiment Association.  The museum also showcased telephony, gramophone, and his work in sign language and efforts to communicate with the deaf and hearing impaired. 

Our B&B in Baddeck was just OK, but adequate.  There was no pedestal sink, so I was again happy.  Dinner was a short walk away, in a bit of a boutique restaurant.  There are a lot of tourist buses in this town.  That part was unexpected, but people we talked to said that it was the start of a day’s run up into the Highlands park.   The primary memories of today will be the rugged coast line and the seemingly endless trees and surf.

September 13

Breakfast this morning was, um, just OK.  It was more of a Holiday Inn Express breakfast that what we have been used to.  This was mainly a driving day, and we took a scenic detour up around Point George to visit another lighthouse.

This time we were greeted with blue skies and lovely weather, although again, warmer than expected. 

We finally made it into Halifax, where we found lots of pedestrian traffic and very narrow streets.  We had lunch down on the boardwalk, and were greeted by our personal Halifax emissary.

 Our lodging is right down town, and within walking distance of the boardwalk and the car drop off.  We are going to be sorry to see this vehicle go, as we really liked it.  We wandered down to the waterfront and had a beer.  This was followed by dinner at what turned out to be a small plate restaurant, which is something that we usually don’t like.  But this worked out just fine.  There are lots of students around, as we are close to a university.  The room was OK, but the bathroom placement was awkward.  And there was the usual low pedestal sink. 

September 14

Breakfast today was marginal, again more on par with the Holiday Inn Express.  We thought that the walk to the Citadel was a bit to far, so we got the car out, and fought our way through the road construction, closed streets, and loads to tourists. 

The Citadel (Fort George) is the central fort for Halifax, and is the fourth one constructed on this site.  In truth, none of the forts played a role in the defense of the Halifax harbor, which is one of the deepest natural harbors in the world.  But it still stands as a testament to the British heritage, and the Canadian independence.  We did a brief walking tour of the star shaped bulwarks, and joined the rest of the tourists in ogling the soldiers in period dress. 

One other notable feature in downtown Halifax is the clock tower.

The next stop was the Maritime Museum, which had a feature on the Titanic, as this was the port where the survivors, and dead of the ship disaster were taken.  The museum was pretty complete, with lots of displays of artifacts, smaller sailing vessels, and the like.  Of interest was the Great Halifax Explosion, of 1917, in which a munitions ship (Mont Blanc) collided with a departing ship (Imo), in the narrows, and was set afire.  Spectators gathered along the shore, and 20 minutes after the collision, a massive explosion killed more than 1,800 people, injured another 9,000–including blinding 200–and destroyed almost the entire north end of the city of Halifax, including more than 1,600 homes. The resulting shock wave shattered windows 50 miles away, and the sound of the explosion could be heard hundreds of miles away.  On our departure from the museum, I was shown how to use a sextant, which is something that has always puzzled me.  I mentioned this to our son, and he said, “Oh yeah.  I know how to do that.”  Smarty pants.  He picked it up on a Sea Scouts trip from Florida to New York many years ago.  As a part of our admission, we also got to tour the museum's ship, the Acadia, which had been originally commissioned as a research vessel.  Because of the icey waters in which she operated, the hull is strengthened.  She survived both world wars, and suffered minor damage in the great explosion.

We had a lazy afternoon, repacking for the train trip tomorrow.  We are at the end of our programmed trip.  Dinner was at an Irish Pub, Dirty Nellies, which was loud, fun, and had good food and Irish music.  There are still many people out.  It’s a vibrant city.

September 15

We again lazed around in the morning and walked down to the waterfront.  There are some great town houses along the way. 

Our limo picked us up for the ride to the train station right on time.  It was rather a waste, as we could see the station, and could easily have walked to it.  But when we booked, we didn’t know. 

No stop in Nova Scotia would be complete without some reference to Canadian artist Maude Lewis.  She was born in 1903 (died 1970), and started her artistic career hand painting Christmas cards.  Her paintings really took off in the 1960's as a result of a review in the Toronto newspaper.  Her bright colors and primitive style have made her a favorite.

This is our first experience with VIA Rail.  I'm excited about our overnight run to Montreal.  The train is a long one with some 19 coaches.  The tail car is the Revelstoke Park, a 1950’s era Budd built dome observation.  It even had the Lucite stair rails.  We were familiar with this, as it is a sister to the Silver Solarium, which we were fortunate enough to ride from Chicago to San Francisco. 

Our compartment is small, but adequate, and our steward (who is from Germany) was very helpful. Lunch was good, and then there was nothing to do but hang out in the dome car, relax, and let someone else do the driving.  The ride was smooth and comfortable.  I’m certain that we made a lovely sight, with the cars streaking past.  

After all, the best way to see the train is from the outside!  Dinner was just OK, and then it was time for bed.  I love sleeping on the train.  Remember however, that you are sleeping on a thin mattress on a steel plate, so if it is a soft, downy feel you desire, don’t take the train.  Or get a private car.  Still, the rocking motion, the fact that the AC was set to “snow” – 18 degrees – we were both out like a light.  There is nothing quite like sleeping on the train.   

September 16

Breakfast was pretty good, and we were into Montreal about two minutes early.  Our luggage was promptly delivered and then – we waited.  Our son and daughter-in-law were stuck at the border, and by massive bridge construction coming into Montreal.  So even though we arrived at 10, we didn’t hook up until almost 12:30. 

We finally got together, spent some time walking around Old Town.  We visited Notre Dame Cathedral off the main square, and also the City Hall, with it's marble halls and flower logo at the forefront.

I do have to mention dinner.  We were pressed for time, and ended up in a very strange, but surprisingly good, small fast food hamburger joint.  I have hunted on line for this place, but just can't seem to find it.

We stalled around long enough that we headed out to the new Bell Centre Arena for the new Cirque show, “Ovo.”  It is about insects, and while that sounds strange, it was quite enjoyable.  Montreal is the birthplace of Cirque, and this areana will be it's new permanent home.

After the show it was a quick run down to Shelburne, VT, and bed.  So goodbye to Canada.  It was a lovely trip, and we thoroughly enjoyed the scenery, the sights and the people. 

 September 17

Laundry and football.  What more need I say. 

And staying in touch with our friends on our Green Bay Packers circuit.

September 18

We drove up to New York, and stopped in several lovely state parks.  We drove through Plattsburg and past our daughter-in-law's former place of employment, which was close to a local hangout. 

Of course, we had to stop.  We would highly recommend Gus’s Michigan Red Hots, an area institution. 

As well it should be.  Delish. 

Back to Shelburne and dinner at a place overlooking the Winooski River. 

September 19

We spent the morning drinking coffee, had lunch at the waterfront, and met our daughter-in-law at the Zero Gravity Brewery.  A home cooked meal for dinner. 

September 20

Off for the airport, into La Guardia, and then to Milwaukee.  Home to our own beds.  A great trip.