July 11

Our trip started today with a ride down to the new Amtrak station just outside the Milwaukee airport. 

Here we caught the Hiawatha, Amtrak service between Milwaukee and Chicago.  And there certainly were a lot of people for an 11 AM train on a Saturday.  There were many more people than Barb or I had anticipated.  The station is quite nice, with a Frank Lloyd Wright design, which blends into the landscape.  After an uneventful ride, we arrived at the madhouse of Chicago’s Union Station.  Apparently quite a few people are taking trains these days, so there were lines and crowds in abundance.  We were finally able to discover Amtrak’s waiting room and the large number of people waiting to board train #5, the California Zephyr.  As we had no tickets, we had to wait to get in contact with Burt Hermey, President of California Zephyr Railcar Charters, Inc., and were hustled out a side door to the Silver Solarium. 

What a sight!  The neon tail-sign, the rounded end, the big rear center marker light; oh this was so neat.  We discovered that until Denver, Barb and I were two of six people on the three cars;  with a staff of nine!  In Denver, we would be meeting my old friend Chris Skow and his group.  So we felt pretty pampered to say the least.  The three private cars are attached to the rear of the regularly scheduled Amtrak run.  So first a word on the cars.  We’ll start from the rear.  The last car in the train is the Silver Solarium, one of six domed observation cars built by Budd in 1948. 

It features a rounded end with lounge, bar in the depressed center, and sleeping compartments for 11.  The car was extensively refurbished and has its own climate control, fresh water, [minimal] cooking, and toilet facilities. 

Next is the Silver Rapids, a sleeper with room for 6 double compartments, and 8 single roomettes.  The doubles have their own toilet and shower facilities, and the singles share a shower.  The last of the three car set was the Silver Lariat.  This is another vista-dome car and is the primary dining area.  There is a galley, seating for 24 in the dome, and an additional 42 people on the main level.  It too, was extensively refurbished to its original condition.

We pulled out of Chicago 20 minutes late, and headed west.  Soon the yards and industry of Chicago were behind us, and we flashed past undulating hills and back roads in the green Illinois prairie.  It was a treat to sit in the dome, watch the scenery pass, and just relax, take in the sights and feel the sway of the car on the rails.  And to know that we were riding in a piece of history, on a route that so many had traveled. 

The hills flew past, and of course, I had to stick my head out to see passing freight trains.

We crossed the Mississippi river at Burlington, hanging out the Dutch doors to get the best angle for photos. 

Of course, things started with drinks and snacks prior to dinner.  As I said, we were pampered!

As the Iowa countryside rolled past, we were chimed to dinner, and ate in the dome of the Silver Lariat while the sun set ahead of us. 

Retiring to the Solarium dome, we watched the night sky and the small towns go past.  While we were at dinner, our berths in the Solarium drawing room had been made up.  And Barb and I settled in for a night of slumber as the miles clicked off.  There is nothing quite like sleeping on a train.  Although Barb has a different take on it, as the thing does bounce and rattle around.  The state of the US rail system tracks is not up to the standards set by the rest of the world.

July 12

Overnight we crossed into Mountain time, so Barb and I were up earlier than usual.  Again, just sitting in the dome with a cup of coffee was great.  The flat plains of eastern Colorado flew past and we found ourselves in Denver’s Union Station.  This was another point to take on fuel, car water and just get out and stretch our legs on solid ground.  Chris and his tour group boarded, and introductions were made all around.  I hope I remember everyone’s names! 

Now the scenery got interesting, as we climbed through the front range, into the Rockies.  Tight turns and steep grades made for some exciting photography.  Soon we were at the 6.2 mile Moffat Tunnel, and then into the ski area of Winter Park. 

We followed the Colorado River for quite some time, through canyons, across bridges, and through tunnels.  It was exciting, and every direction you looked was another breathtaking view. We would break out into lush grassland, rimmed with rocky cliffs, and then around the next corner, we'd be back in a canyon with rushing water and tight clearances.

The scenery continued, as we followed I-76, which in turn followed old US 40 through Glen Canyon,  Purportedly the most expensive freeway section in the country, the roads are elevated in the canyon.  There were plenty of people rafting and swimming on the river, and we were welcomed with lots of hand waving and the brunt of several mooning sessions.  None of us seems to understand the allure of this practice, but it goes on. 

We were stopped twice due to detector alarms, but both proved to be integrity failure alarms.  Detectors read the axles and bearings, looking for hot boxes, which can cause truck set failures and car fires.

  Barb and I joined Chris and his wife Debbie for dinner and we caught up on the past few years.  In the early evening we were west of Grand Junction, in time to see the light play on the red rocks and cliffs of the appropriately named Ruby Canyon.  Time for our second night on the train, as we passed in the dark through Salt Lake City and into Nevada.

July 13

Another time change, so we were up early again.  The terrain has changed from mountain to desert with sagebrush and rock, the views are still spectacular. 

Chris and crew departed at Reno, where the station and the rail line are built in a new trench, so as to cause no traffic disruptions. 

Then it was up into the Sierra Nevada range, right along the Truckee River, a world class trout stream.  The pine forests, tumbling water, and shear cliffs were quite a sight.  There are many tunnels on the line, as well as the snow sheds which protect the train and track from winter avalanches.  We passed the spot where the City of San Francisco was stranded in 1949 for four days.  Fortunately, as this was summer, were were not going to find ourselves in the same situation!  Interestingly, the low temperature for the nature was in Truckee, while the temperatures soared to over 100 as we proceeded down toward Sacramento.

After a brief stop in the aforementioned capitol, we followed I-80 out of Sacramento, past the California State Railroad Museum (don't miss it if you are here),and on to the coast past Suisun Bay, and into Emeryville, across from San Francisco. 

Our trip was concluded, as we pulled into the station, only 20 minutes late.  Which I think was remarkable for a 2500 mile trip.  Sadly, we bid farewell to our hosts, the crew, and a memorable experience.

July 14

We stayed in San Francisco for an additional day.  Other than just about getting into an accident crossing the Oakland Bay Bridge, things were uneventful.  Except it was quite warm for the Bay area.  I fact, I got a bit toasted. 

So there were the usual sights - Coit Tower, the TransAmerica Building and of course, the Buena Vista, which the Irish Coffee was invented.  Did we partake?  Well, yea!  We had to sample the original.  There was a Mexican tall ship in port, so the first night, to celebrate, we were treated to fireworks from our room on the 39th floor of the Hilton.

We took the ferry across to Sausalito, for no other reason than to get a good view of Alcatraz. 

 We ate lunch a little waterfront bistro, and after returning, then wandered down to Fisherman's Wharf and Ghirardelli Square.  To be perfectly honest, I've seen enough T-shirt shops to last me several lifetimes!. 

Tomorrow Barb and I will fly home, having memories of a great trip, some extraordinary historic railcars, and a staff and crew that can't be beat.